Day 4 : Friday 16th December : Coober Pedy to Uluru
We had another long drive ahead of us but our destination was now very much in sight. A few days before we had booked ourselves a special treat for when we reach Uluru and so we had a deadline to achieve.
Having left Coober Pedy we headed north on the Stuart Highways for 490km before turning left on to the Lasseter Highway for the final 260km into Uluru. Had we not had a couple of breaks along the way this would have been our only turn!
One of our stops was at the Northern Territory border, the forth state we would enter on this trip. After this I only have Western Australia before being able to say I have been to all the states in Australia!
Not sure why but it seemed like an amazing achievement to have reach this far!
Continuing on our next short break was to check out the amazing sight of Mount Conner which appeared off to our left.
So far I had been happy just to push on and reach our destination, but increasingly there were places I would have liked to have visited. Unfortunately when time is limited you simply cannot stop and admire every sight; but you can note them and go back. Mount Conner is one such place that is on my list.
As you approach Uluru the rock slowly comes into sight. It is without any doubt an amazing sight. After such a long lead up to this trip and an incredible drive over the preceding fours days our destination didn’t disappoint. Uluru is truly one of the wonders of this world; impossible for me to describe or for my photo’s to do justice. All I can say is if you haven’t already, go visit. Everyone needs to see this place!
As we were slightly ahead of schedule we headed straight for the national park to get a closer view. When we arrived the temperature was 40C+ and so while we did take a walk to get up close and personal, it was a short one.
Uluru, as most people are aware, is a sacred site for the local indigenous population. I had heard before going that while climbing the rock was still possible it was discouraged as a point of courtesy. When we arrived the climb was closed because of the extreme temperatures. A sign near the climb entrance stated that the park was working towards closing it on a permanent basis. While not wishing to cause controversy, I really don’t understand what there is “to work towards”; just close it. You don’t need to climb this place to appreciate its size, magnificence and wonder!
Our campsite for the night was at the Ayers Rock Resort; this wasn’t a difficult choice as there are no other camp grounds any where nearby. We setup, had a much needed shower and header off for the evening.
As mentioned previously, we had decided to treat ourselves for reaching our destination. We booked “A Night at Field of Light“; watch the sunset while drinking a glass of the sparkling stuff – or beer as my companions preferred – followed by dinner under the stars, a talk about the constellations and then a walk through the the Field of Light, an art installation by Bruce Munro.
It was a brilliant experience and the prefect way to end the first leg of our journey; too much to drink, amazing food in the middle of nowhere (not sure how they managed to produce such good food in such a location), good company, both my fellow travelers and the other guests around our table, and an incredible view of both the rock and the stars.
Distance covered; 750 km.
Day 5 : Saturday 17th December : Uluru to Kings Canyon
After a late night and too much fun it was a very early start!
It is essential to see Uluru at both ends of the day and while our alarms were set it was still a struggle to get up and going after the night before. Rather than pack all our gear we simply emptied the back of my car – currently I only have the two front seat – and set off on a mad dash to make the viewing point in time. It is safe to say my car isn’t made for quick corners and so Phil had a rather uncomfortable journey.
However we made it, just, and what an incredible sight.
The Outback is amazing in the way that it transforms as the sun moves across the sky and the light patterns change. Uluru was truly spectacular in the dawn light. Every bit as magnificent as it was during the sunset the previous evening.
An amazing experience. An amazing adventure. An amazing destination.
Having had four long days in the car, today was to be a little easier; if you can call 320km in +40C temperatures an easy day!
Once at the canyon we took a slow walk. The temperature hadn’t let up; there was a storm in the air which increased the humidity and discomfort further.
At the canyon car park there is a sign giving details of the various walks. One was around the rim of the canyon itself. Without doubt it would have been incredible, but there was an almost vertical 100m “staircase” climb to get to the top! Thankfully, due to the extreme temperatures, the walk was closed so we didn’t actually have to bottle out.
Instead we took a gentle stroll along the canyon floor which provided spectacular views up the almost sheer walls. The sights were just amazing adding to the ever increasing list of incredible, spectacular, sights we had seen so far on this journey.
One negative however, were the bloody flies! They were everywhere and extremely persistent.
Camp for the night was at Kings Canyon Resort. Hot showers, cold drinks and very tasty pizza’s. A quiet and relaxing evening.
We hadn’t seen that much wildlife on our travels so far. A few kangaroos as we left the campsite in Baroota and emu’s on the side of the road in various places but that was about it.
As we drove through the campsite there was a sign warning about dingo’s and advising caution. We didn’t take much notice other than to make a general comment, but as we walked back to the bar we came across a female scavenging for food. One more species for our list.
Finally before bed we decided to take a walk out to the sunset viewing platform. None of us were sure we had the energy but it was definitely worth the effort. As the sun slowly descended a storm began to build. It had rattled around earlier in the day and now it was back. The clouds building combined with the lowering sun to create some incredible colours in the sky and across the hills in the distance. At one point fork lightening struck the canyon in the distance to complete the impression that the gates of hell itself were opening.
Nature can certainly beat any man made light show when it decides too.
Distance covered; 320 km.
Day 6 : Sunday 18th December : Kings Canyon to Erldunda Roadhouse via Alice Springs
Breakfast and then off. Our destination today was back down the Stuart Highway in preparation for the next step of our adventure.
I said at the beginning of part 1 of this blog that we had a destination but no defined return route. There were a number of options, one of which was to take a track north of the Simpson Desert back round to Birdsville. Well that will have to wait for another time because in the end we decided to head south and a track which, to be honest I hadn’t heard of before, that would hold a whole new set of memories and destinations to which one day I would like to return.
From the campsite we hit the first proper dirt road of the trip heading for Alice Springs. While we had seen plenty of red dirt over the past few days this was our first experience of really being part of it. The proper Red Center!
It is true to say I am beginning to run out of different ways to describe just how incredible the scenery is. I have used “incredible”, “amazing”, etc., so many times but still this journey and this country continued to give new views, new scenes and new memoirs. If you are reading this and can’t get your head round what I am trying to describe then get on a plane, hire a four wheel drive and get out there. If you don’t drive anywhere else in the Outback do the Red Center Way. You will not be disappointed and I have no doubt you will end your holiday knowing that you have experienced a real Australia adventure.
Somewhere along this section we came across some wild camels. Australia has the largest population of wild camels in the world, but more of that later. I have included a picture which unfortunately isn’t the best as we were too far away, but it does go to prove their existence.
As we continued towards Alice Springs we crossed through the West MacDonnell Ranges. So much to see but no time! However we did make a couple of stops. First at the Glen Helen roadhouse, sorry Homestead Lodge to be correct, for a cold drink and a short break in the cool and then at the Ellery Creek Big Hole where one of our number was brave enough to go for a swim – she was warned about the wildlife but we decided if the worst happened one less passenger would increase my cars fuel economy.
As today was Sunday it turned out that Alice Springs was shut! Well that may be a little unfair but we did try and get something to eat in a bar but they didn’t server food. We tried to get some beer for the evening stop but all the bottle shops in Alice Springs are shut on a Sunday – this apparently being due to a considerable problem with alcohol abuse in the area. Woolworth’s was open, just, so we stocked up on provisions, found a McDonalds to grab some lunch, they never close even in the very center of Australia, and headed south to our overnight stop.
Our final 200km of the day was down the Stuart Highway on nice smooth tarmac with a cold drink and dinner waiting for us.
Distance covered; 530 km.